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I am wondering if anyone who has done the mod to increase the size of the
pins that hold on the tailplane drive pin plates, called TP12, have had any
problems with the new 3/8" pins and looseness??
Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger
Currently working on Rudder Pedals,
In but tight so more work to go on them.
Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
Lower Fuse in Jig,
Tail Torque Tube installed with temporary timber dowels.
Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
Roof Panel between doors completed.
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/TonyR Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
Instrumentation: Garmin 296 Colour GPS beneath an electronic Artificial
Horizon, one that I can trust for short periods IMC, to get out of a sticky
My kit A-265 came with 3/8 pins. Very poor fit, pins fell through the trilobal
holes.Factory sent me 10MM special pins and a 10MM Reamer. The fit is still too
loose after i reamed holes, but bearly within tolerance. Too loose for me on a
new build, you know things will loosen up. The reamer cut a bit oversized, and
the pins were not exact the same.
I broke down and purchased a reamers next size up from 10MM from mcmaster carr,
and some precision go/no go gauges (~2$ ea.). I will ream the hole on my
Bridgeport, then measure exact size. then i purchased some free machining
stainless from them and will make some new pins with a .00075" interference fit.
I will lap to exact size. What I am also going to do is take a popsicle stick
with some sandpaper bonded onto it, and make a dog bone between contact areas and
also lead in so the hole does not get hurt as much without.
To me worth effort now that i can more easily get to stuff before top goes on,
compared to doing later.
Probably will do the deed within the next month or 2.
If you reamed holes with the 3/8 reamer, if they seem pretty round, you could
probably force the next size and maybe 2 go/no go through it (increment it .001)
could not do that.
If you have the luxury of being able to remove your torque tubes, do so and
"send them off to a machinist". The mere smallest amount of "out of round"
with the hole through the torque tube will create the dreaded movement,
exacerbated at the trailing edge of the tailplane. I don't want mine to
ever move, so I have had a machinist do the work, precisely. Its a hard job
even for him, to get everything all lined up and clamped. Don't do it
yourself. If you do I reckon sure as eggs you'll be buying a new torque
tube next. I am even thinking of Bob Harrisons clamps, just in case. Pity
they are so expensive.
At 10:31 AM 11/13/2004, you wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orca...>
>You sound like you must have been a machinist in a past life...or are now
>quickly becoming one!
>In my naivity, I'm sitting w/ a pair of the 3/8" pins thinking that I simply
>would have to upsize the 1/4" holes w/ a simple drill and that would be
>Anyone out there: How have you handled the TP12 mod?
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optu...>
> Gidday Again,
> If you have the luxury of being able to remove your torque tubes, do so and
> "send them off to a machinist". The mere smallest amount of "out of round"
> with the hole through the torque tube will create the dreaded movement,
> exacerbated at the trailing edge of the tailplane.
Thanks much for the head's up Tony,
Indeed I have such a luxury...but would not have thought to do so without