Good points all around, but not entirely accurate. There are (2) parts
and they're called a trailing-arm style rear live axle, and the panhard
bar. The axle is very sturdy and you can get by without boxing it in.
I've tried with and without on the exact same setup and noticed *NO*
The panhard bar is definately the whimpiest piece of metal holding the
rear end together. It's purpose is to keep the rear end centered. Most
certainly box this one in and don't worry about making it adjustable
even if you lower the car some. I've done this on multiple cars and
multiple platforms and never needed the adjustable panhard. I bought a
Spirit R/T from a guy that had cut his springs and slammed the car...the
rear end was still not off-centered.
If you want better handling...best to focus your attention on a few more
effective modifications. Such as better struts/shocks (Koni's), better
springs(Eibach's), good set of poly bushings(Johnny @ polybushings.com),
and my favorite an added in rear sway bar(also from Johnny). Also a
strut tower bar is a great option(Chris Wright Turbos Unleashed). By
the way that bar inside the rear axle is *NOT* a sway bar. Think about
it logically...that bar is inside the axle only and has no attachment to
the chassis. It's meant to strengthen the axle only. A real sway bar
will attach the suspension to the chassis of the car preventing the
chassis from flexing off of the suspension. Don't forget engine mounts
as they can also effect your handling. Johnny again has what you need
for engine mounts and a solid bobble strut.
Like I said I've done the above-mentioned upgrades on (5) Spirit R/T's,
(2) GLHS', (1) Shelby Z, a T-I Caravan, and a host of other friends
asking my advise. I've never had a negative comment in all my years
about these few upgrades.
> I want to stiffin up my suspension a little, so I was going to weld up the
> rear, but some pages I've seen have the pan hard bars and some say the
> "axle" which I'm guessing is the trailing arm beam welded up. I've seen one
> page that showed pics of the pan hard bars welded up, and the other ones
> which reffer to the "axle" being welded up have no pics, so perhaps they are
> really reffering to the panhard bars. Does anyone know which is the right
> one before I just decide to box them both in? Any help is
> 1988 CSX-T - Currently going through handling puberty.
> Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 01:36:12 +0000
> From: overboostrex@comc... > Subject: Re: SD> weld up rear trailing arm beam or pan hard bars?
> Do your plans include lowering the car? If so build an adjustable tubular pan-hard bar and weld the axle. If not; weld them both.
> - --
> Rex N. Elsner
> Corbett, Oregon
> '86 Shelby Charger ('Ole Blew)
> '87 Shelby GLHS#0122 ('Ole Shel)
> '84 Rampage 2.2 (5 speed, Shelby Charger nose)
> '82 Rampage (2.2/4sp)
> '82 Rampage Sport ('Ole Red, DD, 2.2/auto)
> '82 Rampage (2.2 / 4 speed)
> '01 PT Cruiser
> '07 Ram 3500 Cummins 6.7 4x4 Quad Cab
> Co-Founder PNW-SDAC
> http://www.pnw-sdac.org >
> Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 20:31:53 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "Paul T. Standaert" <stealth_@rock...>
> Subject: SD> Re: weld up rear trailing arm beam or pan hard bars?
> The axle (well, it is technically not an axle) is the
> perfectly horizontal thing. That seems really quite
> sturdy to me, and in need of no reinforcement.
> The panhard bar is the flimsiest piece of metal you
> find down there. It is U-shaped and goes diagonally.
> This needs reinforcement, and it should have received
> that from the factory. The bending of this piece is
> what allows your tires to rub your shock absorbers
> around really hard corders.
> Also note, however, that there are two styles of these
> axles. They both have a round bar running through
> them, and you can see it from the bottom. Some have
> solid bars in there, and some have hollow bars. You
> can tell by feeling the ends of the axles where the
> bar meets the axle itself. You'll feel either a round
> thing that hss is hollow, or a round thing that is
> I have not compared one to the other in the same car,
> but supposedly the solid bar ones keep the car more
> level on turns.